 The
mouth of the bay is nearly 100 nm from my home port on the Patuxent River, so it
isn't often that I have the opportunity to cruise this part of the bay.
Most of these opportunities have been on off-shore races and cruises where we
just transited the area but did not stop and explore. These trips included
two Annapolis-Bermuda Races (1986, 1988), one Annapolis-Newport Race (1989), one
cruise to Bermuda (2001), and one cruise to Newport, RI (1981). My other
off-shore trips from the Bay used the C&D Canal and Delaware Bay as the route to
the ocean.
In 1992 I did sail with several other boats on a visit
to Norfolk. We spent two nights anchored in Willoughby Bay; had the
opportunity to watch several Navy warships, including the aircraft carrier
Eisenhower, return from the Gulf War; and toured the Norfolk waterfront.
In 1980 I helped deliver a friends 38' sailboat to
Hilton Head by way of the Inter-Coastal Waterway (ICW) which officially begins
at Hospital Point on the Elizabeth River in the heart of Norfolk.
In 2005 Mike Repass and I passed through Hampton Roads on our way
to Fort Pierce, FL via the ICW and an offshore passage.
In 2007 Bob Calt, Christie McGue and I stopped briefly in Little
Creek, VA when returning Sarah from Europe via Bermuda.
Scroll to the destinations below, or click on the active areas of
the map above for more information on the few places I have visited or plan to visit
in this area.
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Willoughby
Bay is the first small boat anchorage within the Hampton Roads - Norfolk.
The bay is located immediately inside the Ft. Wool peninsula. Follow the
marked channel to the anchorage behind Willoughby Spit. The bay is well
protected from all but the NE. The bay is also directly behind the main
U.S. Navy docks, so you get a nice view of the ships of the Atlantic Fleet.
There is also a medium sized marina on Willoughby Spit. |
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 Little
Creek is the only deep water harbor with significant marine facilities outside
of Hampton Roads at the bay's entrance. Lynnhaven Inlet, just outside of
the Bay Bridge Tunnel Complex has many facilities for power boats and is the
sport fishing center for this area, but the inlet is very shallow and I believe
there is a fixed bridge at the entrance.
In any case, Little Creek is a very convenient place to
stop either before entering the ocean at the start of an off-shore trip or upon
returning from off-shore. The creek (which is anything but little) is
dominated by the huge amphibious warfare base run by the US Navy. On
entering the creek only the starboard shore appears to be not part of the this
naval complex. Immediately to port on entering is the facility used by the
Navy's hovercraft.
Civilian marine facilities are in the first branch to
starboard on entering. There are several very large marinas along this shore with a
full complement of services. There is no place to anchor in Little Creek
and other than the convenience of the marine facilities, I am not aware of any
attractions that would make one want to stay overnight.
I have stopped in Little Creek to take on fuel and
supplies before heading into the ocean on two occasions. I also stopped in
Little Creek on our return to the bay from Bermuda in 2001 to have a faulty
engine water pump replaced and once more in 2007 to clear in with Homeland
Security.
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The
Elizabeth River is the entrance to the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW). Mile
Zero of the ICW is off Hospital Point, where the Elizabeth River branches.
Below are some picture from my first trip down the ICW
in 1980.
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Heading across Albemarle Sound with
Ian Tyson at the helm. Ian and I were delivering Ted & Ginny Von
Zielinski's Little Harbor 38 from the Chesapeake to Hilton Head, SC.
We left Solomons at the end of October and encountered moderate snow storms
on our way down the bay. The first night we anchored in the Piankatank
River, the next night we took a slip in the marina off Hospital Point at
Mile Zero of the ICW |
The next day we headed down the ICW.
By late afternoon we were approaching the Albermarle Sound. All day we
had been riding a northerly wind down the Elizabeth River, through Great
Bridge and Coinjock. As there were only a few hours of daylight left
we could have (and probably should have) anchored for the night and
crossed the sound the next day. However, we were impatient to get to
warm weather and wanted to take advantage of the favorable winds. When
we entered the sound the wind was blowing 20 -25 kts. out of the NW.
The only other boat on the sound was this ketch. Like we they were
heading for the Alligator River on the other side. It appeared they
had taken the Dismal Swamp route to Elizabeth City. |
With the main furled and the genoa
partially furled we were hitting consistent 9's and 10's on the knot meter.
Albemarle Sound is very shallow and can kick up a nasty chop when the wind
is blowing. Fortunately because we were sailing down wind the chop was
on our quarter, and other than requiring constant attention at the helm
caused us no problems. We would not have been wanting to crossing the
sound from south into this wind and chop. By the time we had crossed
the sound and entered the Alligator River it was pitch dark. There is
a lift bridge a few miles into the River. The bridge tender must have
seen us entering the river, and he timed the opening so we didn't have furl
the genoa and stop sailing. We surfed through the open bridge at about
8.5 kts. with the bridge tender whooping us along. The down side of
this late crossing is that we had to anchor in the lower reaches of the
Alligator River which does not offer much protection. We anchored
behind the closest thing to a protective point of land we could find on the
chart and spent an uncomfortable night bouncing at anchor. |
If we could have made it another 3 or
4 miles up the Alligator river and around the bend we could had a peaceful
anchorage (picture on left) with the rest of the snowbird fleet.
However, the Alligator River is strewn with unlit marks and obstacles.
We decided we had taken enough risks with someone else's boat for one day
and just endured an uncomfortable night. |
After the Alligator River we entered
the Alligator-Pungo Canal for miles of straight line motoring. |
The ICW is crossed by an almost
countless number of bridges most of which were swing type bridges shown on
the left. Some were Bascule bridges. At this time (1980) there
were very few fixed brides across the ICW. I believe many of these
mechanical bridges were destroyed or severely damaged by Hurricane Hugo in
the late 1980s. I think many of them were replaced with fixed bridges
at that time. |
This is a shot of Carolina Beach, NC
on cool wet morning in November, just before we got underway for Charleston,
SC. |
Our final stop before we reached out
destination was Beaufort, SC. We spent the night tied to the fuel dock
then departed the next afternoon for a short sail down Port Royal
Sound to Hilton Head. |