Sailing Vessel (SV) Whoosh
Wintering in London
…or along the South Coast of England
This article includes the following sections (Click on the title to go directly to that section):
“Cruising” London
London Area Marinas
Notes on an Extended Stay in
London
Winter Elsewhere in England?
Notes on an Extended Stay In
England
Miscellanea
Additional Thoughts
Introduction: We are currently enjoying our first winter at St. Katharine’s Haven in city center London, so you can appreciate that we’re still on the front end of our learning curve. Nevertheless, we’ve coupled our own experiences with a bit of research and have also talked with others who have been here far longer. What you’ll find below is some basic information on wintering in London, followed by information applicable to wintering anywhere in England. Hopefully, what follows will be of some small help in preparing for your own visit to London, which has been one of the highlights of our cruising life.
Just Visiting? I initially wrote this for those few folks who want to stay the winter in London, but I keep getting asked about visiting during the in-season months for shorter periods. Most of what I have written either remains accurate in season, to the best of my knowledge, or doesn’t apply; I think you’ll be able to sort out which is which. Note in particular the marina choices. If the kitty is tight, you can still stay in London – aboard your boat – for some weeks at a very reasonable cost and have access to both Tube and bus public transport. But regrettably, there will be somewhat of a cost and time penalty getting to City Center. Still, cruising sailors are an inventive, hardy lot and I suspect you will not be denied the wonderful experience of visiting London solely because there are some puzzles to solve.
It is impossible here to attempt any comprehensive overview on touring London itself; even the Lonely Planet’s London guide apologizes for being less thorough than they would like. In this write-up, we’ll (mostly) restrict our comments to topics related to mooring a boat with plans to winter aboard her. Still, you can see we couldn’t help but add a few thoughts about getting around London.
Our special thanks to Bob & Judy Bailey aboard POOH BEAR, a thoroughly prepared and comfy Westsail 32 that Bob built from a bare hull and which Bob & Judy have cruised throughout Europe over a number of years. They were very helpful in offering a wide variety of information to us when we were just dipping our toe in the concept of sailing to Europe, and their information has proven gold plated. The fact that we were able to share a winter experience in London with them was icing on the cake. Should all sailors who lead the way be so generous and knowledgeable.
Several basic references: While this is only a tiny sampling, we have found these to be very helpful introductory resources to our ‘land orientation’ in London:
a. National Map Center - a small specialist shop offering maps and related products of all kinds, starting with parts of London and expanding beyond England and then the UK to include all of the Continent; 22-24 Caxton St., London; 0207 222 2466; located just around the corner from the St. James Underground Station. NOTE: This is reached on either the Circle or District line, both of which depart from the Tower Hill Station immediately adjacent to St. Katharine’s Haven. So…you now know how to get from your most likely berthing location in London to a place that will help you find everything else!
b. Bensons MapGuides’ London Map: Bus Map & Guide for Visitors – this one £1.75 map has a wonderfully legible and thorough map of central London on one side and all of the bus routes – individually listed and also illustrated on a London map, along with all the Underground Stations – on the other. It is the most functional single map we’ve found to help us identify the location of a given ‘target’ within Central London and then plan the best route to reach it. Used in conjunction with the ubiquitous tube map (carry the small, free Underground map in your purse or wallet for instant referrals), these two maps are usually all you’ll need. Purchased at the National Map Center.
c. Transport for London’s Fares and Tickets brochure, current edition, available free at all the Underground Stations and London TICs (and most likely available by mail if you contact Transport for London). This has a complete description of all the fares charged on the Tube, buses, trams, ferries and Docklands Light Rail (known as the ‘DLR’) and is very helpful in building an initial understanding of what kind of ticket is most cost effective for a given route, number of stops and time of day. (I’m making this sound more complicated than it ends up being…but only after you work at it a bit). Consider buying ‘CarNet’ Tube tickets in groups of 10 to use when making single trips within Zone 1 (the central part of London) as there is a cost savings. Similarly, buy ‘Saver’ bus tickets in packets of 6 from News Agents and TIC offices; these too offer a price discount.
I’m describing these in geographical order, from the most expensive and closest to London’s City Center to the most distant. We visited the first three but not the last two. Their appeal will depend on what you are willing to spend, how hard you want to work the transportation issues, and how long you plan to stay.
St. Katherine’s Haven: (50 St. Katharine’s
Way, London E1W 1LA; (44) 02074 880 555;
www.taylorwoodrow.com under current
ownership) St. Kat’s is located on the north shore of the Thames, immediately
before the Tower Bridge and is adjacent to the Tower of London. The marina lies
behind a lock and is therefore non-tidal; it has floating docks, as well.
Note: Much of the detail that follows could shortly be out of date, as this
marina is being sold to new owners at year’s end, 2003. New management will
undoubtedly bring change; it’s just that none of us can yet appreciate where
those changes will be felt for the winter liveaboard community. Look for an
update at the end of this write-up, which we’ll post in the Spring before we
depart. But despite the pending ownership change, since this is the most
popular choice for wintering over in London, I’ll try to be relatively complete
about the basics.
1. Early reservations (made the previous winter) are recommended given its prime location and given its apparent reluctance to rent out all its slips. They may need to be sensitive to the neighbors in the surrounding flats, since London prohibits liveaboards except for short durations (<6 months) for foreign boats, only.
2. St. Kat’s consists of three distinct, separate Basins (pictures in table, below), each with their own walkways and docks. At the time this is being drafted (December, 2003) the West Basin is immediately adjacent to the on-going construction of a tall office building, so some construction noise is noticeable during workdays; you might ask about its progress. Also, the traffic noise - abundant throughout London - is somewhat noticeable to us in the West Basin, while less so in the Central and East Basins. However, its ‘Shower Block’ (see next item) is larger, newer and nicer than the one in the East Basin; if you don’t shower aboard, this fact may be a Biggie. The Central Basin is more often used to berth larger boats and, as you might suspect, is adjacent to the Lock. It sits at the foot of the shops, walkways and such, and therefore offers less privacy. It seems to enjoy the most winter sun. The East Basin is furthest away from the hotel and lock…and seems to be accommodating the largest number of cruising boats this winter. There are slips in each of the basins that enjoy far more sun during the winter than neighboring slips, and it would be wise to make that part of your request. (It has been surprising how warming and cheerful a bit of direct sunlight is during the winter period). Slip assignments are a function of which cruising boats are returning, where your boat will “fit”, where the permanently berthed boats are located, and the preferences of the staff.
3. Amenities here include minimal shower, toilet and laundry facilities in two small ‘blocks’ at the corners of both the East and West Basins plus a central bathroom facility in the marina office building that is quite nice and adjacent to the Central Basin. The ‘block’ facilities are kept clean but are pretty basic. Each ‘block’ has one washer & one dryer, with a single load typically costing £3.50 (wash & dry) and using tokens purchased at the office. The tiny reception area of the marina office offers a small stand and telephone line should you want to do some short-term emailing or web surfing. Mail is delivered to and held at the office, where one goes to claim it.
4.
There are a variety of shops and cafes which are part of the marina
complex and provide you with some of the basics: a news agent, good reasonably
priced cafes, fancy restaurants, an ATM (ohhh, how foreign cruising has been
simplified by ATMs!), a good hair dresser (who charges small fortunes, say the
women I talk to), and of course the ubiquitous Starbucks. Behind the East Basin
is a separate small complex of shops that houses a nice Safeway grocery (Safeway
is expected to soon to be purchased by Morrison’s, so stay tuned for change on
that front…), a DVD/Video rental shop, a drycleaners, book/card shops, and more
eateries. Proximity to the grocery is one reason we find the East Basin a good
location, but the West Basin is closer to the Tower Hill tube station, the DLR
and the Tower Bridge.
5. As stated, Tower Hill’s Underground (‘Tube’) Station is several blocks away, and bus stops surround the marina. The Tower of London is adjacent to the marina grounds and the frequent ceremonial cannon fire can on special occasions make you feel like the Battle of Britain is still underway. Other nearby shops (within walking distance) include a plumbing supply house, a discount, well stocked tool store, a community center in nearby Wapping that offers broadband internet access (see below; £1/hour – a good deal here in London) and also hosts a dental clinic where good care can be received very cheaply, as well as a large Oddbins (if you like wine, you probably already know what this is; if you don’t, you probably won’t care). The ‘Ironmonger’ (hardware store) is a few blocks beyond the Tower Hill tube station and is another frequently visited store. A small drug store is in the same block. Pubs abound in all directions.
6. Full payment of slip fees occurs near the beginning of the winter period. The fee consists of a berthing fee based on length plus a standard (for 16 amp 240V AC service) electrical fee. Thus, we all enjoy electricity unlimited by financial concerns, altho’ it is limited by that 16 amp breaker on the dock. The bigger and more complex boats enjoy electricity subsidized by the smaller boats…while the crews of the smaller boats tend to complain more about the cost of electricity, I notice. The six months lease period begins when the boat arrives, even though the six-month period is advertised as 1 Oct – 31 March. It’s apparently common for crews to want to remain a bit longer than 31 March, in which case a request is made to extend the period at the pro-rated winter rate. No one knows if this practice will continue but my guess is that if the in-season rates are used in the future, we will all probably flee immediately at the end of our 6-month periods!
Summary of St. Kat’s Basins:
| Basin | PROs | CONs |
|---|---|---|
|
Central Basin adjacent to Lock |
Near shops and cafes Near exit to Tower Hill area Nice shower and head facility |
Only for larger boats Less privacy |
|
West Basin |
Closest to most used exit and Tower Hill, DLR and Tower Bridge Newest/nicest shower block |
Some traffic noise Big construction project ‘next door’ Fewer slips with lots of sun |
|
East Basin |
Closest to Safeway grocery and DVD/Video store Most ‘private’ and quiet basin Largest collection of cruising live aboards this year |
Furthest away from Tower Hill destinations Distant from marina shops & cafes Smaller/older Shower Block |
As you can see, I’ve gone into a fair bit of detail on St. Kat’s, simply because it occupies the ideal location. Whether it remains a desirable – or even viable – wintering location for future cruising sailors will depend on the new owners. I’ll try to offer you a short-term update (at the end of this write-up) this coming Spring.
Limehouse Basin (also home of the Cruising
Association): (1 Northey St., Limehouse Basin, London E14 8BT; 020 7308
9930) This marina is located 1.6 NM downstream (to the east) of the Tower
Bridge, immediately off the Thames River on the north shore. It also lies
protected behind a lock, is non-tidal and offers floating docks. Unlike St.
Kat’s, the back side of the marina is connected to a canal that is considered
part of Britain’s Inland Waterways system.
The significance of this remains
uncertain in my mind, although to the extent a boat located here must be in
compliance with the requirements of the System, it could impose the obligation
of a survey to confirm compliance (and replacement or change where compliance is
lacking). The best way to address this issue would be to raise it at the time
you request a quote on winter dockage for your boat. Explain that you are a
foreign flagged vessel, that your understanding is that the UK accepts properly
documented U.S./Canadian vessels who are compliant with U.S./Canadian
regulations, but you wonder if there are any Inland Waterways requirements which
they will expect you to meet during your short 6-month tenure. Should you
subsequently initiate a lease with Limehouse, I would recommend you insure it
excludes you from Inland Waterways compliance issues, or at least does not
obligate you to them.
1. The biggest downsides to Limehouse as a wintering over location are the small number of fellow cruisers, the nature of the neighborhood itself, and its remote location relative to the Underground. While there are numerous boaters living aboard their canal boats at Limehouse, there are few cruising sailors there, and this is historically typical. Consequently, the ‘networking’ and mutual support of being near fellow cruisers is diminished substantially over St. Kat’s. (Who will watch my boat when I’m back home? With whom can I exchange info on sights and events? Who can I attend an event with after dark?) Limehouse is located among a large block of high-end high rise flats and adjacent on one side to a marginal neighborhood. There are numerous small shops and stores on the main street ½ mile away, plus or minus, but it’s fair to say the marina area is dark and unoccupied at night. None of the big attractions are nearby, so public transport must be sought out. Multiple bus lines pass by Limehouse (115, D3, and 395 lines plus the very useful 15 line). Switching to another bus may be required to reach most of central London, although the 15 Bus does deliver you to Paddington Underground Station and the Piccadilly Circus/Oxford Street area. The DLR (light rail) line passes within a few blocks of Limehouse but ends near Tower Hill at Bank Street, well short of most of central London. This means that going most places from Limehouse will be a bit more time consuming and, since a transfer to another bus or the Tube may be needed along with a new, second fare, some additional transport costs may result by being located here.
2. All of that being said, I think the location will be less of an issue in-season. Days last longer, the weather is more agreeable relative to public transport, and the in-season slip fee savings could well exceed the transportation costs.
3. Also offsetting these disadvantages, the Cruising Association has its headquarters at Limehouse, which means that a ‘clubby’, active social club is always a very short walk away. Moreover, their small but nicely arranged facilities offer hot lunch and dinner meals most evenings, a social bar, a library containing guides and cruise reports, and they sponsor a series of seminars during the off-season to which folks will attend, including some from St. Kat’s. If you end up wintering at Limehouse, membership in the CA would be a natural choice. For more information see www.cruising.org.uk.
4. Before you toss out this option, keep in mind that a Limehouse berth still puts you very close to Central London, does provide you with access to a versatile, well distributed public transport system, and offers facilities comparable in quality & amenities to St. Kat’s. Also keep in mind that I have not berthed there and may be overlooking some of its benefits which others who stay there become well aware of. Best that you enjoy a full discussion with the Limehouse office staff and determine for yourself how you view this alternative.
South Dock Marina: (Rope Street, Plough Way, London SE16 78Z; 020 7252 2244; jillr@sdockmarina.co.uk) Another locked marina, also with floating docks, 2.5 NM below Tower Bridge on the South Bank (actually, the west side) to the twisting Thames.
1. South Dock is a different kind of option. It appears to be more of a storage area for canal boats and only a few sailboats, and they claim they do not allow liveaboard boats for their stated lease periods (altho’ there is a bit of evidence to the contrary). However, shorter stays of some weeks for liveaboard cruisers are acceptable to them. It offers an affordable place for crews who are cruising on smaller budgets and still hope to see London as, at this time, it quotes a weekly rate for boats up to 15 meters of £75/week, including electricity. That’s a huge bargain by London standards, especially in season. And one can still reach central London by Tube or bus, although again at a bit of a time and cost penalty.
2. The marina is located in a redeveloped part of East London, surrounded by a large number of relatively new multi-level flats. Adjacent to it is the large watersports basin Greenland Pier, the former home of the Cunard Lines ships running to & from Canada. This is also where vast quantities of food were imported to London and all of England during the Depression, from where it was lorried the short distance to the warehouses, now fashionable flats, directly across from St. Kat’s. More relevant to cruisers, a few blocks away is a very large, modern shopping mall, including perhaps the largest, best stocked grocery we’ve seen – and it’s a Tesco, one of our favorite brands. There are a number of other stores in the mall area, including a new multi-screen UCI movie theater, and the older town of Surrey Quays (pronounced “Keys” in England) is also in this area, where numerous small shops and services are located.
3. The marina offers a mix of services on-site and also has a 20 ton crane should you need to attend to some underwater issues at this point in your cruise. The lock, like the ones at the other marinas, both upstream and down, opens on request from roughly 2 hours before HW until 1.5 hours after. You’ll want to time the opening so that the concrete sill at the lock’s mouth offers you sufficient draft for your vessel.
4. Public Transport is available at the nearby Surrey Quays (and also Canada Water) tube stations on the East London Line. Because the Tube station is a short walk away, this actually makes South Dock ‘closer’ to Central London in some respects than Limehouse Basin. In addition, there were several bus lines running near the South Dock area. (NB: The tube stations near South Dock are in Region 2, making travel to/from Central London a bit more expensive. But there are ways to make your use of public transport cost effective. As an example, the day we visited South Dock we purchased the Tube’s daily Travel Card for Regions 1 & 2, then tubed from St. Kat’s to the Liverpool shopping area, subsequently reversed direction and traveled out to East London where we took in a movie after visiting South Dock, and we could then have returned to any of the main sites throughout central London – by Tube or bus - while continuing to use that single Travel Card, which cost £4.10. Travel cards are versatile and unlimited in their use for a given day. Since they can be used on buses as well, they are helpful when making short hops between attractions once a Tube train has delivered you to the general area).
There are two other marinas on the Thames, but they are neither close to the center of London nor convenient to most of the historical sights and museums. Nonetheless, for the sake of completeness, I’ll include the basics below. They both offer public transport nearby although the cost and time loss penalties discussed above will be more substantial. We did not visit these marinas and so this information is extracted from the 2003 MacMillan REEDS Nautical Alamanac.
Poplar Dock Marina: (020 7515 1046) Locked marina 4.5 NM below Tower Bridge near Canary Wharf (½ NM) and Millennium Dome (½ NM). This is a smaller facility than South Dock. Public Transport: served by Canary Wharf tube station on Jubilee Line (Region 2), and by the Docklands Light Rail system at the Blackwall Station, plus bus lines I would think. Tube, bus and DLR are the three main methods for getting around London, so this is good news this far out from city center.
Galleon’s Point Marina: (020 7476 7054) Locked marina 8.5 NM below Tower Bridge near the Royal Albert and King George V Dockyards. Smallest of the three facilities listed in this section. The fuel barge LEONARD is usually berthed outside the lock, where one can take on fuel. Public Transport: Docklands Light Rail system at the North Woolwich Station (Region 3; last station on that line)
Notes on an Extended Stay in London
Marine Supplies: This is not a convenient place to dig deeply into a refurbishing or repair project, as there are no vendors in the downtown London area who can deliver services or offer repair parts. There are also no chandlers of substance, altho’ a marine electronics vendor is within the London area. And vendors who are needed, e.g. an engine mechanic, must drive a significant distance through London traffic at the boat owner’s expense. Still, cruising sailors are an inventive, dedicated lot and some boats get totally involved in adding heating systems or hauling off transmissions for a rebuild; it’s just neither convenient nor inexpensive. But there are vendors who offer relevant services to boats here, which Joe & Lee Minick of SOUTHERN CROSS helped us identify. They include Flo Gas for propane (see below), On-Line Lubricants (020 8593 0123) who will resupply your stock of diesel lube oil (prompt delivery to the boat), Mike Putt, Sailmaker (202 8599 1413) who will pick up and deliver sails in need of repair, and the many discount marine suppliers, chart agents and other vendors (e.g. Kayospruce; see below) who know how to work the postal system to their (and your) advantage. If you plan a winter project, bring the bits and pieces with you if you can.
“Non-Marine” Marine Supplies: Back home it’s pretty typical for boaters, especially those of us with a limited kitty, to raid the local Home Depot, machine shop or hardware store for some of what the marine vendors would like to sell us at a price premium. In the UK, one large home improvement chain (known as a “DIY” store here) is B&Q. By the time you reach London – and especially after you discover the absence of marine vendors – you might be wondering where the local DIY store is. One B&Q is out on Old Kent Rd. on the South Bank and can be reached using the 78 bus, which you catch right on Tower Bridge adjacent to the St. Kat’s marina and Thistle Hotel. Hope that comes in handy…and helps the crews’ kitty, too. (But watch out – a huge PC World is right across the street!)
Arranging for a land phone line: Some cruisers wish to request British Telecom (BT) to install a phone line at their slip, e.g. so they can have internet access aboard or have dirt cheap international call rates using special vendors. To initiate the connection with BT (0800 800 150), you will need to offer BT a postal code that is consistent with your marina address. FWIW we found for St. Katharine’s that BT’s database has a different postal code than the Royal Mail uses. I suggest you offer them the postal code E1 1LB along with the St. Kat’s address if the regular code of E1W 1LA doesn’t work. This would have saved us 30 minutes on the cell. If like us you didn’t bring a phone instrument with you, consider visiting Tottenham Court Road (exit at the Tottenham Court tube station off the Northern Line), a retail district loaded with electronics stores from the extra grungy to the spectacular. We opted for a cheap non-portable phone because it had a built-in speaker, meaning that both of us could hear all the phone conversations with family members and friends…but we wished we’d thought to bring one of the phones from home as they should work fine.
It’s been historically cheaper to arrange long distance calling service through specialized vendors rather than using BT. To do this, you register with a service (either debit or monthly billing is possible) and then dial a prefix when calling to obtain the special rates. You can register this service with either your cell phone and/or your landline. Due to recommendations from others, we chose to use Superline which, to date, we’re impressed with. This works like the vendors back home; you dial a prefix number followed by the regular number and are billed the special rate. See www.superline.co.uk for more information.
Internet Access: The basic options are to access it yourself (s-l-o-w cell phone modem or landline using your computer’s modem, the latter either aboard your boat or in a marina office) OR seek access at a local library or Internet café and enjoy broadband speeds. In locations across from Charing Cross Station or Tottenham Court Station, there are huge Internet cafes with many terminals. (The largest I’ve seen has 460). The actual per-hour rate charged by the ticket machines that issue access codes is £1/hour +/- but varies depending on how busy the café is; as usage climbs, so do the rates. If using a café, you need to insure that you will have access to an external drive or USB hub if needing to up/download a file; printing can also be problematic at times, and also expensive. Libraries seem to have adopted a semi-entrepreneurial bent throughout England, they offer DVDs, videos, CDs and web access on a for-fee basis, and most of them have broadband on multiple terminals for reasonable cost. Printing doesn’t usually seem to be a problem at libraries, altho’ file transfers are sometimes restricted. From Limehouse or St. Kat’s, broadband access can be found halfway between the two marinas at St. Peter’s Center, off Watts Street in Wapping, for £1/hour. The library on Whitechapel is another library used by some St. Kat’s cruising sailors.
Propane: If you plan to use propane on your boat over the winter period and will be berthed in London, you’ll be pleased to know that you can have British bottles (of either propane or butane) delivered to your boat by Flo Gas. They offer next-day service and can be contacted at 02074 769 091. Be sure to offer them a description of where your boat is berthed; they sometimes struggle to get to the right basin. A second source of propane filling is the fuel barge located off the St. Katherine’s Haven Lock; they will pick up/deliver to the marina office and provide Calor bottles. It’s your job to get the old bottle to the office, and lug the fresh bottle back to the boat.
London Boat Show: This is held in January of each year and is one of Europe’s premier boat shows (along with the Southampton Show, held each October). 2004 was the first year this huge show was held at its new venue, ExCel’s exhibition center in the Docklands area. This location is easily reached from St. Katharine’s or Limehouse Basin by taking the DLR train from the nearby DLR station. Like many U.S. shows, they have a Preview first day at a premium price. Especially helpful to those of us who sailed here from another country and subsequently attend the show, entering with a ticket on your first day allows you to arrange to subsequently visit the show as many days as you wish without additional charge, by virtue of identifying yourself as a Foreign Yachtsman. For more info, you might visit www.schroderslondonboatshow.com.
Free Public Transport: Greater London’s government, which funds (and subsidizes) both the Underground and bus systems, offers a free transport pass (‘Freedom Pass’) to all seniors who are age 60 & over and who are London residents. This pass permits free transport on all buses, Tube and DLR lines (except before 0900 on weekdays). To qualify for this benefit, one should be residing in London, for which s/he must provide proof as e.g. in the form of a utility bill along with a photo ID that verifies age. One does this at a local post office, where a Freedom Pass form is completed and submitted with proof of residence, photo ID and also several small passport photos. (Many post offices have self-serve photo booths; cost £3.50). You will receive both a Transport of London photo ID and also your Freedom Pass, which is what you slip into all the Tube and DLR turnstiles or display on buses. The pass is free and is good for one year. This benefit is used by eligible cruising sailors who winter over each year if they install a phone line and therefore have a utility bill that provides proof of their local residence. This is not a ‘dodge’ and you aren’t “working a fiddle” by applying for this pass; it is perfectly legal. In fact, a common photo ID to use is either a (non-UK) passport or a North American state or provincial driver’s license. The TFL web site also explains this eligibility clearly. There’s no doubt in my mind, after reviewing a few months of our actual public transport expense, that the value of this pass more than pays for the cost of a phone line aboard a boat, which is about £12/month before individual call charges are included.
Provisioning: You initially might not think in terms of provisioning heavily when leaving London, as you most likely are headed to other parts of Europe or perhaps around the UK, where you will continue to find shops along with larger stores in the bigger ports. However, there are exceptions to this. E.g. we are thinking of sailing to Norway when departing the UK, where we hear the stores are far fewer, offer less inventory, and where the price of things makes London look like a bargain by comparison. Thus, if choosing that route, we will provision accordingly. This might also apply if planning to cruise in the more remote areas of Scotland and Ireland. Some of the best grocery chains offer free or low-cost delivery for larger orders (>£50-75). From St. Kat’s, Limehouse or South Dock, it could make sense to utilize the delivery services of the large Waitrose grocery at Canary Wharf’s huge mall & shopping complex or the large Tesco near South Dock. This beats lugging things back by foot or via the Tube or bus in smaller loads.
The Cost of Things: For those voyaging on a finite cruising kitty, the cost of most things in London presents a challenge. We heard dire warnings before arriving here of how expensive London could be but were somewhat doubtful. After all, we found costs in England generally to not be that much more than some parts of the U.S. Well, the caution was valid, and especially given the state of the U.S. or Canadian Dollar as I write this. The general thumb rule is “Pounds for Dollars”: The cost of an item in London – in Pounds – will be roughly the same as the cost of the same item in the U.S. or Canada, in their respective Dollars. (Londoners who visit the States point this out to us repeatedly, as everything in the States appears to them to be huge value). Since the exchange rate as I write this is $1.77 U.S. to £1.00, the difference is noticeable and occasionally breathtaking. However, the range of free events, museums and historical sites plus the subsidized cost of public transport help to mitigate the cost of living here. And besides, since when have most cruisers not had to watch their budget? The good news is that, in general, the experience of being here seems huge value for money, at least to both of us.
This consists of only the briefest of descriptions and of course is just our subjective view of things…but it attempts to answer a fairly common question: Where else can one consider wintering in England, if not in London? What follows are distilled comments we’ve heard from other crews about the most likely South Coast port alternatives, and with which we agree.
· Falmouth: Less severe winter weather; a quaint and small town but with a large and modern (if congested) marina; good library accessible by bus for DVD/video rentals and internet access; all the shops necessary available by bus; yacht services and multiple chandlers in the area. It is very time consuming and expensive to reach almost anywhere else in Britain so plan on this being a rural Cornish experience and not very desirable or convenient if UK travel elsewhere and/or travel back home is planned.
·
Plymouth: Either in the newer Mayflower marina distant
from city center or on the north side adjacent to the old downtown waterfront;
prices are higher than further west; winter weather still somewhat milder and
some yachtie infrastructure is available. Much of Plymouth was destroyed in
WWII and, while you’ll find all the basic shops, department stores and a variety
of theaters in Plymouth, it is less picturesque than other areas. Travel to
London and other parts of Britain is, again, costly and time consuming.
· Dartmouth: Picturesque, protected and full of boats, this river valley and town hosts the Royal Naval College as well as several suitable marinas and numerous local shops. Winter weather will still be somewhat milder by English standards than further east. Still, it seemed to us that the town would grow quite small over a full winter’s period and travel to London or elsewhere in Britain is again costly & time consuming.
· The Solent Area: The area from Poole all along the Solent, including the Isle of Wight, is the sailing/boating center of England. Boats abound and overwhelm the facilities so advance reservations will be especially important. The yachtie infrastructure is abundant and Southampton offers one of the nation’s two main boat shows in October. Time and cost of travel to London or most of Britain remains a problem. Still, if some major projects are planned for the boat – and the crews’ wallet can sustain expensive travel and lodging expenses to see other parts of Britain – this may be a location worth considering. By now, you have entered the highest cost area re: marina charges; things will remain relatively pricey until you reach the East Coast (see below).
· Gosport/Portsmouth: Another large boating center at the eastern end of the Solent, Gosport offers a small but suitably equipped ‘small town’ setting not unlike Falmouth while, right across the river, is the glitzy new retail Outlet Mall/theater complex and the historic Portsmouth Dockyard (a must-see for visiting yachtsmen). Aside from the still-distant location from London, the biggest problem here seems to be the lack of a well-protected marina still convenient to the Gosport shopping area. Surge from the many huge ferries, commercial ships and many smaller work vessels and tugs seemed to us a problem at all the Gosport marinas, and the impact of high winds on the Solent was quite noticeable, as well.
· Brighton: This resort complex immediately adjacent to the Premier-owned marina offers a totally protected, recently refurbished and very upscale marina co-located with a newer tourist attraction full of shops, high-end markets, casinos and night clubs, plus a fantastic grocery (Asda’s). It represents a unique (for England) choice meeting an acquired taste; think Atlantic City. The marina is being upgraded after its recent purchase and is totally protected from the churn of the English Channel if not its tides (unless one docks behind the tidal lock). Behind the resort area is the ‘real’ town of Brighton which has a more typical, historical feel to it. Again, transportation remains an issue even this far east.
· Ramsgate: A combination of an older, lockable marina and a newer, still protected one, at the foot of a visually striking waterfront town left us with a favorable impression. It also has some chandler and related services available. However, it is basically on England’s eastern ‘chin’ re: weather and some distance from most of Britain altho’ closer to London than the other alternatives described above. You’d feel whatever winter weather was being dished up in the English Channel and the town can barely support a two-screen movie theater and one decent grocery, if that helps calibrate your impression.
· East Coast towns: This refers to the coastal area north of the Thames Estuary and up to the Scottish border. We have not yet visited any of these towns, but the common description we hear is that they will be more remote and offer fewer amenities than the cities described above, and with weather that is colder and wetter than locations on the South Coast. Yachtie infrastructure will be determined by the nature of the town’s marina(s), with some being very well equipped and staffed (e.g. up the Orwell and at Ipswitch).
Wintering in England!? Are you Nuts? Some readers may be scratching their heads, wondering why any sane person would choose to winter in England; it’s a reasonable question given the weather and short days. Part of the answer resides in the close historical and cultural relationship between today’s United Kingdom and Ireland, and the North American continent. Touring England, becoming good friends with Brits we’ve met while cruising, and actually living here – as opposed to visiting short-term as a tourist, buried in a hotel room or a touring bus – has been like looking back through a family album for Patricia and I. We’ve come to understand our own language in new ways, to see our history from a different but relevant perspective, and we have come to appreciate – and at times question – our own country in ways we think are constructive, rewarding and typical for cruising in foreign waters. Moreover, this country’s culture is far more accessible than most foreign shores we’ve visited simply because English is universally spoken here; this enriches the experience immensely.
Another part of the answer, however, is directly related to one’s route planning. If crossing the Atlantic and not wanting to miss out on Northern Europe altogether, it’s tough to find enough time in what remains of that first sailing season after your crossing to do more than visit a portion of the UK – perhaps Ireland or, as we did, the South Coast of England. With much untapped cruising still to be done in the UK – and with all of Scandinavia and the Baltic waiting for you, as well – a cruising sailor who’s made it this far north needs a good wintering location nearby in between the short sailing seasons. If the dark and the cold and the rain worry you, plan on an extended trip home while you leave the boat to winter here. And if the occasional but brilliant sunny days, the rich views throughout London, the functional public transport, and the 1,001 museums, concerts, and historical sites surprise you, you just might find this is a cruising destination worthy of accepting any season’s weather.
So just what is ‘Winter Weather’ like there? I’m unable to describe what your weather would be like, during the year you winter here. In general, weather at the west end of Britain is milder year round and suffers less rain. But what ‘mild’ actually is during a given winter seems to vary from year to year. This winter, in London, we’ve seen late Fall/early Winter temps around 8-10° C (middle to high 40’s F), both day and night. However, in December near-freezing temps are becoming more common. Last winter, we are told that January-February brought skim ice to the marina (in the shady areas) at one point and that some light snow fell. And of course, wind is one common ingredient to all the weather systems here, although St. Kat’s offers a lot of wind shade from almost any direction due to the high rise flats. If you want more information about the variability in weather conditions in these parts, research which might prove especially worthwhile if you are considering wintering in Scotland or Ireland where things are quite different, I’d recommend consulting a climatological atlas at a good University or Municipal library.
Receiving Mail from NA: Getting mail sent across an ocean can be expensive and, when multiple vendors are involved, it can also get complicated. After having USPS Air Mail sent by surface ship and USPS Global Express mail being mishandled by Parcel Force (the UK vendor with that USPS service contract), we’ve ended up relying mostly on USPS Global Priority. We are charged $11 by our mail handling service ($9 is the USPS fee) for which they send everything/anything that will fit inside a Global Priority’s cardboard folder-type envelope. Delivery usually takes 5 business days; the package is not traceable. Using a commercial vendor (Fed Ex, DHL, UPS) is possible but considerably more expensive. Nevertheless, if you will be sending critical documents or other valuable items, I would recommend one of the commercial vendors since you are working with a single traceability system and it is one firm who is responsible for the shipment. The Royal Mail, which suffers from many organizational burdens, is not always dependable in my view and I doubt one can rely on USPS traceable services once they reach the Royal Mail’s or a contract agent’s hands.
Receiving Marine and Household Items from NA: There are many permutations on this; I’ll try to get the basic points across. When you order something from L.L. Bean or West Marine – or ask your Uncle Bernie to send your pipe and slippers – the items get boxed and a U.S. Customs label is attached which identifies the contents and declares their value. (When personal mail is sent in packets or cartons, it is usually marked “Documents” and given a value of $0). Arrival here in a box usually (altho’ not always) brings the package to the attention of HM Customs, which has a complicated table of duty charges AND is entitled to charge VAT on the items (with exceptions and above dollar value thresholds). Some shippers will include these charges in the shipping fee at the time the package is accepted for shipment, while other times you receive a COD notice and must leave money where the package is to be delivered and call for a redelivery. (I have received packages with marine gear from Canada and was surprised to see no external Customs form, nor any query from HM Customs. Is this because Canada is a Commonwealth country? I can’t explain it but it was a nice surprise and wonder if this is normal.) Having someone (mail service, family member) receive items from a NA vendor like West Marine and then repackage and ship them via USPS has, I’ve heard, helped them slip occasionally around HM Customs charges…but that depends on the size of the package and surely hasn’t happened to me yet. The only exception in our limited experience is USPS Global Priority, but the two sizes of cardboard envelopes for this service cannot accommodate great weight or bulk. Still, Global Priority has turned out to be our preferred method when it can enclose what’s being sent. To sum it up, my impression so far is that buying from UK merchants when possible is certainly quicker, usually easier, and at the end of the day somewhat but not a lot more expensive than trying to purchase and ship things from North America. For things that absolutely, positively must come from back home, hopefully the above information will prove helpful. (Now you understand why any of us making trips back to North America during the winter return so burdened by our luggage).
Mildew, Mold and Living Aboard: Boats used as homes in the wintertime are heated, which inevitably leads to them ‘sweating’ due to condensation between the cold hull, port or hatch frame and the warm interior. There are many recommended methods for dealing with this, each of them incrementally adding to the battle. We brought Hypervent with us to place under our berth but, because that hasn’t been a source of condensation, have instead thought of using it to line a hanging locker. Another alternative is to line lockers with closed cell foam, available along with many other fabrics, canvas, sail and canvas fittings of many kinds from Kayospruce (01489 581 696; www.sailcloth.co.uk; Kayospruce@sailcloth.co.uk). One day delivery usually available.
Related to humidity aboard one’s boat, we were advised by Joe & Lee Minick on SOUTHERN CROSS to pick up a small, unobtrusive dehumidifier, as this not only helps reduce humidity when aboard but can also be left running to help keep the boat dry when leaving to fly home for a while. We happened to first meet Joe & Lee in Gosport and they pointed out that an easy way to make this purchase, given the bulk and weight of such a unit, was to pick one up at the Argos discount store located in the ‘strip mall’ of shops right in Gosport. Cost: £89.00. One can even roll a marina cart over there to ferry one back to the boat. It was a good suggestion and has helped to keep our boat noticeably drier. This will require a 240V AC power source, of course, if purchasing it in the UK; see ‘Euro AC Power’ for a way to do this aboard a NA boat wired for 120V AC.
Heat: A related issue is how to heat one’s boat. Methods we see being used here in St. Katharine’s include typical fan-type AC space heaters, oil filled radiator-type AC space heaters (safer to leave on when the boat is unattended, some people feel), reverse cycle HVAC systems, and diesel-fired systems that either route hot forced air or heated water (to radiators) throughout the boat. Two related details to remember are:
· You will only have 50 cycle AC available to you. So for example, is your HVAC unit fully 50 cycle-compatible? That would mean the blower motor, compressor motor and circ water pump can all survive long-term on 50 cycle AC (check with your unit’s manufacturer). Even simple NA space heaters can die after a while when digesting 50 cycle AC.
· Dock power at almost all UK marinas is no more than 16 amp service at 240V. That means that, to stay away from the hairy edge of tripping a dock breaker, you have roughly 3600 watts to work with. Larger boats with multiple AC systems aboard find they must be jockeying AC breakers to use their many AC appliances…and may not have enough power to run multiple HVAC units.
Filling Prescriptions: It would seem that even if your NA family doctor were to appear at the Prescription Counter on your behalf, you would still not get your medicine. Your only option appears to be requesting fresh prescriptions from a local physician, for which you will of course need to provide copies of your NA prescriptions and also pay a fee. We found the going rate to be £10 per script in London. Be sure to carry the generic name of your prescribed drugs with you, as a given brand name may not be traded within the EU.
Video & DVD Rentals: Most towns and all the cities seem to have a mix of DVD/Video rental stores, including Blockbuster franchises. Both video and DVD media formats seem to be commonly found in these stores and also the local community libraries. Eventually, most boats end up modifying their DVD player if their boat is so equipped (and whether it is a dedicated player or part of the on-board computer system) to play multiple region codes. If this isn’t a familiar topic to you, suffice it to say that, for commercial reasons, North American DVD players are usually restricted by their software to playing Region 1 DVDs exclusively. All European DVDs are Region 2. These classifications have nothing to do with the four different TV systems you might come across – NTSC in North America, PAL 1 in Europe, PAL 2 in the UK, and SECAM in France. There are software ‘fixes’ available to help your laptop play DVDs of any region, and there are special instructions for some DVD players that allow you to change them into multi-region players. Or you can purchase that capability at a price premium when buying a new player and/or computer. There is a vast amount of information on this topic on the Web and it is one of the agonizingly long list of things one could, perhaps should but – regrettably - might not be able to address before shoving off.
Want to watch TV? Similarly, there are many choices related to receiving TV signal, although one of them is not cable. One can purchase a separate tuner designed for either a desktop or laptop computer. Such a tuner could be capable of receiving the traditional broadcast signal (not terribly well received inside the St. Katharine’s complex) or it might receive the new digital broadcast service called Freeview. (Freeview is being installed in densely populated areas where traditional reception is poor. It is not universally available). Freeview has no monthly fee and does offer additional channels beyond the traditional broadcast but does require some unique hardware beyond the conventional tuner alone. Another option is to purchase a standalone TV, either solely for PAL-2 broadcast signals or intended to use the different signals found on the Continent, as well. If purchasing the TV, you again face the choice of whether or not to purchase the Freeview ‘box’ for digital service. And finally, you should know that, if using a TV of any kind anywhere in the UK, one is expected to purchase a TV License from the government. This license is how the BBC networks and programs are funded, and the license application is obtained at the local post office. (Do you wonder how they enforce this? There are inspectors who travel about, knock on doors and ask to see residents’ licenses…or sweep a given area with a sensitive receiver to look for oscillators working on certain frequencies, perhaps then comparing what they find with their license records. All a bit strange to those of us from the North American continent who are familiar with publicly funded Public Television and universal non-licensed, free access).
The Truly Mundane: What lies below is barely deserving of comment except for the fact that we were confused by it and so you might be, too. If this helps one or two others, perhaps it isn’t time wasted.
1. Phone numbers – most UK phone numbers are 11 digits, with the first five being the ‘area code’, as contrasted to NA’s 10 digits. The first digit (usually a ‘0’) is omitted when calling the number from abroad and using the ‘44’ country code, but the ‘0’ is included when being dialed from within the UK. (Fewer digits are used when making especially local call). We are accustomed to a universal format throughout NA in which the numbers are always displayed 123 456-7890. Perhaps because they think outside the box a bit more, Brits choose to play with the sequence depending on what combinations stand out and are easily remembered, so e.g. you might see 12345 678 901 but could equally see 123 4567 8901 or 12 345 67 89 01 or any other combo that strikes them as more memorable. (I guess it’s the desire to make things a bit easier to remember that the national 0800 toll free (or ‘free call’) numbers here are 10 digits).
2. OAP is a term you might see at ticket windows. It stands for ‘Old Age Pensioner’ and seems to be the UK equivalent of a ‘Senior’ back in North America. If you see this and are 60+, ask about OAP prices…or ask even if you don’t see the OAP category! One thing we’ve learned is that there are ‘special deals’ for almost anyone for one arcane reason or another; OAP is just one such example. (When buying movie tickets in Plymouth once, we asked what age applied to their ‘Senior’ price to determine if we were eligible. “Oh, they never told us,” was the reply by the young ticket taker. “Wouldn’t be terrible if I had to ask people their ages…and they had to tell me!” I chuckled at that comment, and also liked it a good deal. So thoughtfully, sensitively British, I thought, and also –typically – so administratively hopeless).
3. “High Street” may be a specific street in a given town but is also a term that refers to the main area of shops in any town or village. Being directed to “pop over to High Street” may not even mean going to the street with that name, if a larger area of shops has subsequently grown up elsewhere. (Look for that in the new London-based movie, Love Actually). The term is used in somewhat the same way we say we’re going to the Mall.
4. Towns with a name ending in ‘mouth’ are simply the towns located at the mouth of their respective rivers. So for example Falmouth lies on the River Fal, Dartmouth lies up the Dart just a ways, and Axemouth is up the Ax.
5. Don’t always look for a ‘W’ to be pronounced in place names because it’s often omitted when locations are pronounced. Thus, Harwich is Har’ich and Woolwich is Wool’ich. It took a tweak of the ear to understand some of these names until this was explained to us.
6. Visiting here, one can learn a lot about the evolution of the English language. Here’s just one story – represented as true – that refers to an area near where we’re docked. Fleet Street was the original location of London’s fledgling newspaper industry. Without any reliable means of communication – and therefore, sources of news – some centuries ago, reporters were told by their editors to visit the local Pubs, sip on a pint while making the rounds and to listen in on who was saying what, then come back and write it up as news. (This is considered the beginning of London’s infamous Tabloid Journalism, which produces many papers today on a par with the ones you see at NA supermarket check-out counters, having to do with Hollywood stars mating with space aliens). Anyway, the editors would constantly be shouting at the writers to go sip another pint and bring back more news…until ‘Go sip’ evolved into a phrase with its own connotation. Today we use it in the word ‘gossip’. (If someone reading this is certain that this isn’t true, please don’t tell me. I really like the story and can picture it happening so easily when visiting Fleet Street and looking at all the pubs!)
Disclaimer: In looking back at what I’ve tried to cover, I’m certain I’ve overlooked some topics of genuine interest and surely misstated or incompletely addressed others. When reading this, if you have found errors or omissions you think I would want to hear about, please free to email me. I’d welcome the feedback.
After posting our ‘Wintering in London’ article, we received some follow-up questions and also gathered some additional information. Because of how the original article had to be posted on John’s website, we’ll offer the follow-up information here.
How is the run up the Thames to London done? This is easily done in a single day, including the time it takes to be locked into whichever marina you plan to stay at, provided you work with the tide tables, preferably with an agreeable tide during daylight hours, and ‘stage’ your departure from the Medway. But let’s back up and start at the beginning…
If headed for London, you most likely will be coming along England’s South Coast and may choose to stop at Ramsgate Royal Marina just before reaching the Thames Estuary. Whether departing from Ramsgate or passing it when coming along the South Coast, you’ll want to begin your transit up the Estuary by heading for the Medway. You have two routes, as yachts use both the Four Fathom Channel and the Queens Channel. While more direct, the Four Fathom Channel is bypassed by yachts concerned about adequate depth, as its use is more dependent on the state of the tide. We rode the flood from Ramsgate via Four Fathom Channel and saw a least depth of 10’, departing Ramsgate as the flood began (midway between Springs & Neaps). Arriving in the area of Queensborough on the Medway River, you can choose to pick up a buoy to port or pass a bit further up the Medway and pull off into Stangate Creek. Anchoring here is pleasant and safe, although there’s certainly no place to visit ashore as its remote from any development. Mooring, berthing and anchoring options are spelled out in REEDS and also the East Coast Guide. Frankly, we relished the chance to anchor one last time after so many marinas, pontoons and mooring buoys.
From here, one rides the tide up the Thames so as to arrive in London at the front end of the tidal ‘window’ when your marina of choice can lock you in. This will be from approximately 1-2 hours before high tide to 1-2 hours after high tide (as measured at London Bridge). Each marina has a slightly different lock situation, so corresponding with them ahead of time by phone is a good idea; you can do this several days prior to your arrival. River traffic can be heavy enroute to London but it’s easy to stay at the fringe of the main ship’s channel as required. You’ll find the tide will increase your speed by 2-3 knots and the transit time will be much shorter than you feared. You are responsible for monitoring three VHF frequencies in succession during your run, and MUST obtain clearance from Woolrich Control before passing through the Thames Barrier. The river is heavily patrolled by a variety of agencies, including Police, London Port Control and the Harbormaster staffs, and you’ll want to be sure you are clear on your responsibilities before setting out. As always, the procedure is outlined in REEDS. We found it helpful to mark on the charts in advance where one shifts from monitoring one VHF frequency to the next.
Updates on London Marinas: Writing this at the end of March, we’ve collected some additional information about the following marinas.
St. Katharine’s Haven – the new owners took possession on March 26th and have initially announced that there will be few changes and the existing management will remain in place at least through YE 2004. That would suggest that little will change for Summer 2004 visitors and perhaps during the first part of the 2004-2005 ‘wintering over’ period, although this is at best a guesstimate since the new ownership has just begun. It would be nice to hear that the new owners will address some of the repairs and capital improvements that, for the last three years according to current management, have been ignored. Wintering-over rates are not yet being offered by the new owners, altho’ yet another increase wouldn’t be a huge surprise. Examples of 2003-2004 rates for the 1 October – 31 March period: 32’ Cutter paid $3600 U.S. and our Pearson 42’ cost us $4400 U.S., including both water and all the AC power you can take from the 16 amp/240V AC power stand (based on the then-current $1.75 U.S. to the Pound). Nothing can improve on the convenience and pleasure of the location, which remains outstanding, and the security appears effective.
Limehouse Basin – Ironically, there appears that more change is afoot at Limehouse despite it being St. Kat’s ownership that changed. The marina’s management has changed and British Waterways has begun overseeing operation of the marina. You’ll remember my caution (see “Wintering Over…” article) about what BW System compliance issues might be raised if wintering over, so remain alert for this possibility when signing a lease…but without making a fuss about it unless it surfaces. Another operational change is that the dock electrical stands have recently been changed out and electricity used onboard will now be distributed exclusively by card-reading, metered stands. For an understanding of the significance of that change, and of marina and electricity recharging generally in British waters, see the section below. We have also spoken with boats who found, when directed to docks long enough to accommodate them (43’/13+M), that they grounded somewhat on entering their assigned slip. Since the dock is lock-protected, this is a product in part of how the lock manages the depth in the marina; you might inquire about draft limitations if you have a draft in excess of 6’/2M. And finally, to date it has been impossible to install a city phone line at Limehouse and it will be up to British Waterways to decide if they wish to reverse this decision. The absence of this service makes it very difficult for 60+ year old cruisers to obtain a utility bill which, in turn, makes one eligible for a Freedom Pass for Transport for London's Tube, bus and DLR systems (see this topic in the “Wintering Over…” article). Absence of a landline also eliminates practical modem-based internet access on the boat for those desiring it. There is mention of a promised WiFi system to service Limehouse, altho’ that’s likely to cost more than a phone line and I do remember hearing the same ‘promise’ when arriving at St. Kat’s in September, 2003…with no evidence of follow-through seen, to date.
South Dock - One comment we’ve subsequently picked up about South Docks is that it apparently is less sheltered by surrounding development than either Limehouse or St. Katharine’s and so the winter storms can produce a more active motion aboard the boat, altho’ nothing extreme. Offsetting this is not only the lower cost but the fact that the marinas is less congested than Limehouse with more maneuvering room to park your boat.
Electricity and Marina Costs in England: Electricity charges levied against boat owners by marina operators has in particular generated much hostile comment the last few years, as apparently many marinas were recharging sailors well above the rate assessed by the local utility company. Revised law that was placed into effect YE 2002 made that illegal and, to show the difference it can make, Canadian friends who were wintering over in Falmouth that winter saw their electric bill in January, 2003 drop by 50% even as the temps were still heading south. The new law reportedly keeps a loophole in place, however: the marina can charge what they feel is justified for the physical improvements installed that deliver the electricity…so there is still much fussing over these costs at some marinas. The change at Limehouse Basin mentioned above is another lesson from the same primer, as the previous ‘bulk rate’ apparently charged to the marina and then subsequently re-billed to marina slip holders was about 50% less than that now being assessed directly by the newly installed card-reader meters on the docks. (This estimate comes from a live-aboard owner at Limehouse who did some careful test measurements at the time the stands were changed out). If seeking a quote from Limehouse on a winter rate, it would be useful to get the cost per kilowatt hour that the meters charge and do some estimating based on your projected heating and other AC usage.
Local practice in marina charges varies a good deal from one sailing venue to the next, as I’ve already mentioned, but it’s fair to say that England in general offers a practical case study in microeconomics, more specifically the law of supply and demand. Facilities in many parts of England’s South and East Coasts are simply fewer in number than is the demand, while environmental constraints, regulatory pressure, the costs and administrative hurdles of new coastal construction and no doubt other barriers seem to present a constant pressure on facility growth. There appears to be widespread complaining among British yacht owners regarding unjustified rate increases in many parts of Britain’s coastline, it often is connected to complaints about few if any amenities being offered for the rates charged, and some of the examples are pretty extreme. (Of course, this is to some extent a criticism one hears everywhere one sails). There is little you can do to change this as a visiting sailor; given the overcrowding, you’ll likely take any berth available to you when it’s time to tie up. However, when wintering over it’s a good practice to solicit a written quote from more than one facility, compare apples with apples insofar as you can, and look into the details of the facility vs. what your needs are likely to be. Because electricity charges over a cold and sustained period can be substantial, don’t overlook including these in your computations.
London Sail Loft: If you need a sail repaired, a dodger built or you require a bullet-proof vest (no joke; he makes those, too), Mike Putt might be your man. While you may choose to have difficult repairs on sophisticated sails done at a special loft, Mike has been repairing sails and doing canvas work for more decades than I could believe when we met him aboard WHOOSH to see about a mainsail repair. Mike Putt, Sailmakers can be reached at 020 8599 1413 or on the mobile 078 6049 6533. They are located in Dagenham, Essex but will pick up and deliver to all the marinas in London. They request cash payment, as they are not set up to handle credit cards when delivering.
Nearby Electrical Rebuild Shop: If you’d like your alternator or starter motor rebuilt, or perhaps just blown out, cleaned up and the brushes replaced, you can use Kaymoor PSV in Stepney (02071 790 5277/0364). You can reach them by walking north on The Highway from St. Katharine’s about one mile to the ‘T’ intersection with Butcher Row. Turn left (west) onto Butcher Row and go one block to 571 Cable St.
Reprovisioning: It might seem strange to you that I would be writing about provisioning WHOOSH when we are planning to sail only a handful of miles before finding ourselves in another part of Europe…and even more so because the cost of food in London is higher than elsewhere in the UK. But we had some helpful coaching on the availability and cost of food in The Netherlands (once again, from Adrian and Julia Wright of CRÉME BRÛLÉE, who live in Amsterdam) and felt there were at least three advantages to provisioning here, before our departure.
1) Product selection is less in the smaller North European countries, as are the grocery stores. If you’ve come to value a certain brand for one reason or another, you are probably choosing between provisioning later with a different brand – or going without - or stocking up before you leave.
2) Some products aren’t priced lower in Northern Europe, and so there’s no monetary advantage to buying later vs. buying now…which leads us to the main reason we did some of our provisioning in London…
3) One of the best British grocery chains, Sainsbury’s, offers on-line grocery ordering. Product listings are illustrated with pictures and, if you’ve been shopping in any of the British stores for a while, you won’t have much problem recognizing what you want. The huge advantage of course is that no physical effort is required in lumbering the groceries to the deck of the boat. The delivery van arrives with your items bagged by item and hand-trucked to the dock. If your order exceeds £60, delivery is free. All prices are the same as in the store, including sale items and specials. Provisioning has never been so easy for us, before. Other grocery chains may also offer this option; if you have a favorite, you might want to check.
What’s the London Boat Show Like? This show is held in early January each year, and 2004 was the first year in a new venue, the ExCel convention center. For foreign yachtsmen/women it offers three distinct attractions: it is a huge show, ExCel is a new, clean, carpeted exhibition center that makes for a wonderful show venue, and foreign sailors are invited to return – free – as many days as they wish after attending their first day via paid admission. This free admission offering is quite simple to take advantage of: After entering Excel, look for the small room off the Main Lobby that says ‘International Visitors’ or something to that effect. (If you can’t find this, ask at the Information Booth at the show’s West entrance). You will be asked to show your ticket stub and proof of foreign residence (e.g. a driver’s license with a non-UK address). You will be issued a nice pass that will allow you entrance from that point until the end of the show, which in total runs through one full week plus two weekends.
Do I winterize my boat while wintering in London? I’m told that continental Europe’s winter at these latitudes is a bit harsher but the answer for London is normally a ‘No’, as well as for England’s South Coast. The coldest weather we’ve seen this winter is -3°C or perhaps 27°F, which existed for some hours. The practice that seems universal here is to rely on the cabin’s heat to leach into the engine compartment and keep temps above freezing. To the extent the engine is collocated with the hull below the waterline – and surrounded by water that is above freezing temps – this helps protect the engine. I’m sure some winters can be more severe and those of us who travel home for a while try to arrange with fellow yachties to watch after our boats and perhaps turn on a space heater if things drop too low. (We left a 100W light bulb on in our engine compartment, with a spare to hand if our helpers noticed the light had gone off). In a related thought, I should mention the Tayana 47 that had its fresh water lines freeze inside the boat. Apparently, the lines passed so near the hull – and were so well insulated from the cabin’s warmth – that these mild below-freezing temps were enough to plug things up. While this was just inconvenient for a while and caused no damage, it’s something to think about with respect to your own fresh water system. It’s also a good practice to keep the boat’s water tanks relatively ‘topped up’ as dock supply lines have frozen on occasion, at which point you won’t be able to fill empty tanks.
What to Wear in London: I am the LAST person to be discussing fashion topics…but at least a general observation might be helpful about the nature of dress when attending events and visiting sights in and around London. What you will end up being comfortable wearing is, of course, exclusively your own choice. But it appears to me that folks wear virtually EVERY kind of clothing imaginable to EVERY kind of event I’ve attended. This seems to be true at shows in the major theaters, at musical concerts in churches, and at the few restaurants we’ve been able to afford visiting. So…bring whatever you want to wear, but don’t feel you MUST pack the tux (or much else that’s heavily formal) unless you have specific corresponding plans or simply prefer a more formal nature of dress. However, I think a fairly common exception to what I've just written is when you are invited to visit an Englishman at his Club. On such occasions, a tie is required. (Oh, and to state the obvious: hat, gloves and scarf are all very useful during the dark and cold months of winter).
And Finally: London Traffic, Public Transport and You: Much like the bumble bee that any engineering analysis will reveal can not fly, London traffic actually should be in unrelenting gridlock 16 hours a day. Most streets are so terribly narrow and those thousands of big red buses so terribly large that it’s a wonder they can turn most corners. And then there are the many vendors and their delivery vans, panel trucks, courier cars and moving vans, all with no place to park on-street to deliver and pick up the goods…which doesn’t stop them from doing so, in the least. To this we must add the ubiquitous police car (some of the best race driving I’ve ever seen has been a London Police BMW moving at a high rate of speed through congested London traffic) and, at the opposite end of the ‘speed’ scale, the hundreds of bicycle couriers with their satchels, slow acceleration and daring maneuvers. Add to this mix the many large lorries, the ambulances and fire trucks, the CCTV/British Telecom/etc. utility vans, and the thousands of motorcycle couriers, and it’s a wonder London traffic moves at all. And you’ll notice that I have yet to mention the common car, numbering in the hundreds of thousands, that must also ply the streets each day. And yet…London traffic moves well for the most part, quite an amazing thing really. The current mayor of London instituted a ‘Congestion Charge’ of £5/day to “incent” (economically force) commuters onto public transport and out of their automobiles and it’s had a noticeable effect; London traffic is reported to be down 30% over one year ago.
As with the City in general, which constantly keeps rebuilding itself, Greater London’s public transport system (go to www.tfl.gov.uk for a fascinating glimpse) is always struggling due to a mix of fire inspections, routine maintenance, inevitable repairs, ‘industrial actions’ and the constant demands put on the entire system by this huge population of commuters and tourists. Put another way, there are always some broken links in the system. Offsetting this is the amazing amount of redundancy built into the maze of Tube Lines and bus routes, and the ability for your first preferred route – and then your second! – to be unavailable, and yet a semi-direct method of getting where you need to go still being available. As mentioned in the original ‘Wintering’ article, you’ll need a good city map (with bus routes) and a handy Underground route map but little else to move around London successfully. Just don’t be surprised or anxious due to the ongoing hiccups. And if you can, stay away from morning rush hours when fares are higher, the cars and buses are jammed, and the air inside them feels like a tropical hothouse.
In a nutshell, traffic can be dangerous for the unaware pedestrian. It would seem a blind mother pushing a baby carriage would receive little forgiveness from the driver of a London vehicle. Every intersection has large white signs with arrows painted right on the street pavement, alerting you to which direction you should check for traffic – use them even if you have experience in other countries with right-hand traffic patterns, as some London streets are split, one-way roads and can be tricky. Vehicles will ‘jump’ the green pedestrian signal you are using in heavy traffic areas, and are helped to do so by the ‘Yellow’ caution light telling drivers when their Red will soon become a Green. So…watch yourself.
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There is probably a great deal more I could try to address. Better to offer the opportunity for you to email me if you have questions not adequately addressed here. As I stated earlier, we’re just beginners on this topic…but we tried to be good students, too. To the extent I can answer a question or help you puzzle through a dilemma, we’d be glad to do so.
© Jack Tyler – April, 2004
WHOOSH, currently lying St. Katharine’s Haven, London
© Jack Tyler – January, 2003
WHOOSH, currently lying St. Katharine’s Haven, London
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